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[return to the REVIEWS archives]
reviewed on: September 12, 2008
I’ve always held that a lot of chains create a dazzling atmosphere to mask the less-than-dazzling food they serve. So, when I first walked into Brio Tuscan Grille at Park Meadows Mall, and stood staring slack-jawed at the stunning interior, I have to admit, my first thought was, it was just going to be another pretty face.
First of all, Brio is cavernous, with vaulted ceilings, sweeping archways, magnificent columns and enormous chandeliers connected by swoops of white gossamer fabric. The colors are warm and earthy, and perfectly complement the exposed wood which is everywhere. The entire rear of the room is one long, open kitchen. In short, one thing Brio doesn’t lack is lots of “wow” factor.
So, we got seated, while continuing to twist and turn just to take it all in—the over-sized booths, the white napped four-tops, the comfy lounge area, the patio which sports not only tables for dining, but sofas and low tables for relaxing out-of-doors with a cocktail.
If you have difficulty choosing from a menu, plan on spending lots of time with the menu at Brio, which features a staggering selection of appetizers, salads, steaks, pastas and sides. Our waiter kept inquiring if we were ready to order, and we kept responding no, that we simply needed more time to take it all in. The simple act of choosing an appetizer is complicated by offerings like crab cakes, lobster bisque and gorgonzola-crusted lamb chops. Finally we settled on the Mushroom Ravioli and Brown Butter, which brought four big, ravioli swimming in a nutty brown-butter sauce that would drive a cardiologist crazy. Hey, if it shortens my life by a few days, it was worth it.
We passed on the salad course which, in retrospect, was a good thing considering all the food that was to follow. I can’t even come close to telling you about everything on this menu, so I’ll just hit some of the highlights like Lobster Risotto, Artichoke and Herb-Crusted Pork Chop, a Whole Roasted Chicken, Veal Marsala, a filet crusted in Gorgonzola cheese, and Roasted Lamb Chops. And while we’re studying all this, we’re nibbling away at the most awesome sourdough bread I think I’ve ever had—warm and crusty, and so good we didn’t even touch the accompanying butter.
We finally ended up with the center-cut pork chops grilled Tuscan style with lots of Italian herbs, accompanied by asparagus and real mashed potatoes, and the Penne Mediterranean with mushrooms, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, feta cheese and pine nuts. And, if there was any doubt left in my mind at this point about Brio, it was completely removed by dessert, a crème Brulee trio served in espresso cups—hazelnut-chocolate, caramel and orange zest.
Brio is extremely affordable, with only the steaks and the lamb chops breaking the $20 mark. They’re located at Park Meadows Mall by the west entrance to Macy’s, and they serve lunch and dinner as well as an ala carte brunch on Sunday.
Brio Tuscany Grille
8441 Park Meadows Center Drive, at the west entrance to Macy’s
303-662-9727
http://www.brioitalian.com/menu/ |
