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reviewed on April 25, 2008
I think it’s the time of year. As the days get longer and warmer I seem to yearn more for the succulent taste of barbecue (or is it barbeque?). Whatever the reason, we’d heard so much about Big Hoss Barbecue and Steakhouse, that it was time to see what all the fuss was about. So we pointed the car to 39th and Tennyson, where restaurants seem to be sprouting like daisies in springtime, and followed our noses to the place that’s been receiving so many accolades.
There’s nothing fancy about Big Hoss—after all this is a barbecue joint. At the same time, it has a great, warm feel to it with polished wood surfaces everywhere, clothless tables, and a massive, eye-catching 21-seat bar that stretches the length of the restaurant. And, of course, there is the inescapable aroma of wood smoke that sets your taste buds to jangling, and declares this is a place for barbecue. And, if the bartender is a guy who looks like a linebacker wearing a western hat, make sure you introduce yourself to the proud and ebullient owner, Hoss Orwat. In fact, if he has the time, he’ll even show you the barbecue pit which he built brick by brick. No computerized smoker here. This is barbecue made the old fashioned way.
The menu covers the usual dishes, and then adds some nice twists. So you’ll find pulled pork, ribs, brisket and sausage, but the sausage is Cajun andouille sausage, which the menu warns are “not for the faint of palate.” And you’ll find bison ribs, smoked chicken wings and even barbecue spaghetti topped with pork or brisket, a dish rarely seen outside of Memphis. Then there are the non-barbecue items—po’boys, fried chicken, a variety of burgers, fried green tomatoes, and lots more for anyone not interested in the flavor of smoke.
The rib combo seemed a good way to sample the smoker’s skills—a massive order of two bison ribs and four meaty St. Louis style pork ribs smoked over a mix of mesquite and hickory, and slathered with Big Hoss’ own proprietary sauce. All the barbecue plates come with a choice of two sides including baked potato, slaw, beans and a Kansas City favorite cheesy corn that could pass for dessert. Plain and simple, you won’t go home hungry. Finally, from the non-barbecue selection, we tried the blackened catfish, two moist and plump filets with just the right amount of spiciness.
I often get asked, “what’s your favorite place for barbecue?” and I’ve learned from experience that’s a good way to end up in an argument. So, let’s just say that Big Hoss is right up there among the top barbecue places in Denver and, if you’re into barbecue I have a feeling you’ll be leaving with a big smile on your face.
Big Hoss Barbecue and Steakhouse
3961 Tennyson St.
720-855-3061 |
