Sports bars have always been thought of as the place where guys went to hang out with other guys, drink beer, talk loudly and root for their favorite team. Why have they been thought of that way? Because that’s basically what they were. If your idea of haute cuisine was chicken wings, they were also great places to dine. In recent years things have been changing and, while you probably won’t want to take your wife there for your anniversary, the newer version of the sports bar offers some well-priced, above-average fare, and an atmosphere conducive to family dining.

This week after getting positive calls on The Restaurant Show, we dropped by Recreation Lounge and Grille on South University. Why Recreation? Because the owners want you to know that this is a re-creation of your typical sports bar. And, indeed, brother-and-sister team Jesse and Autumn Wicks have put a lot of time and effort into creating a sports bar with many unique touches, not the least of which is the food.

Recreation is tucked among the many shops in the Cherry Knolls strip center on South University across from the old Southglenn Mall and, unfortunately, like a chameleon, it blends right in with the surrounding shops. Once inside, however, you’ll discover a relaxing room with some darned good food.

Recreation is divided essentially into thirds. The restaurant itself, with comfy, uncrowded seating, black matte tables and colorful wall hangings is located to your left. To the right is the bar, which is—a bar. But there’s lots of physical separation between the two, and the sound system has been arranged so that the volume can be set differently for different parts of the room, allowing lots of noise in the bar on game days, while the dining room remains a quiet area where you can enjoy your meal if sports and noise aren’t your thing. In the center, between the dining room and the bar is "the lounge," a comfy area with overstuffed chairs, a sofa, and a fireplace and, again, with its own sound control.

Which brings us to the food, put together by CJ Apter, and Brent Jackson, both culinary school grads with a background in classical food preparation. Together, they’ve created a fun menu that transcends what one normally expects to find in a sports bar. So, the appetizer selection includes sliders prepared with Italian sausage, baked brie with roasted garlic, sesame-crusted ahi tuna and other, temptations. We enjoyed the Pork Fried Dumplings, an Asian favorite, here served with a hot mustard sauce for dipping.

Entrees run the gamut from sandwiches to pasta, steak and seafood, all prepared with creative touches. So pasta comes topped with shrimp, spinach, tomatoes and garlic in a white-wine/butter sauce, a garlicky New York strip steak is served with romaine hearts dressed with a pesto vinaigrette, and the pork chop is prepared with a mustard crust and served with grilled asparagus. There are also a variety of sandwiches available at any time, including a marinated flat iron steak sandwich with caramelized onions, and an excellent portabello mushroom sandwich with three stacked caps, mozzarella cheese and sliced tomato—messy but very tasty.

Their signature sandwich is the panini which you can customize to your own likes, choosing the meat, the bread, the cheese, the toppings, and the spread. Come up with a really good combination, and your name and your sandwich will be added to the "Wall of Fame," so others can order it.

I know the temptation is to write off a sports bar as just that, but if you’re in the market for good food at an affordable price in a comfortable setting, do yourself a favor and check out Recreation Lounge and Grille.

Recreation Lounge and Grille, 6830 S. University Blvd. (SE corner of University and Arapahoe by the Rite Aid), 303-771-4299
http://recreationlounge.com/home.html