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Dated: October 26, 2007

Seen one Chinese restaurant you’ve seen ‘em all. And as a corollary to the above, eaten at one Chinese restaurant, you’ve eaten at ‘em all. All kidding aside, let’s be honest, and admit that there’s a great deal of similarity among not only Chinese restaurants, but Asian restaurants in general.

That’s why my curiosity was piqued after receiving several calls about a new place in Arvada called Chopstix Asian Grill. And I was even more curious when I drove into the parking lot and got my first glimpse of the restaurant with its flashy, modern exterior, highlighted by a brass revolving door. And, to give you an idea how big the restaurant is, it’s a converted Village Inn, so we’re talking a lot of floor space.

Inside, the restaurant is as stunning as outside. The floors are a mix of large tiles and dark hardwood. The walls and ceiling hangings are red, white and blue, and we’re not talking pastels—this is serious color. There’s a wishing well with carp and goldfish, a bright, modern lounge area with eye-popping blue lighting, and an open kitchen outlined in red. The dividers between the dining areas are made of panels of fractured glass. In short, this is a restaurant you really have to see to appreciate.

Unlike at most Asian restaurants, the menu at Chopstix is short and to the point, with representative dishes from China, Thailand and Vietnam. It takes a minute to get used to the layout of the menu because it’s different from what you’re used to. So, for example, there’s a section for poultry dishes, all priced at $9.25. Seafood has its separate listing, all priced at $10.25. Thai curries are all together at $9.25. The most expensive dishes are the Chopstix Specials, all of which go for $11.95, and it is here that you’ll find the most intriguing dishes on the menu, including crispy duck, ginger shrimp, and Hong Kong style pan-fried noodles.

One of the true tests of an Asian restaurant is the scallion pancakes. It sounds like it would be an easy dish to prepare, but I’ve had many awful renditions of this dish in my lifetime. These were perfectly done, nice and chewy, and accompanied by a delightful soy ginger sauce for dipping.

Next up was the Spicy Garlic and Pepper Prawn from the seafood section. The shrimp were bite-sized and shelled, and the flavors of shrimp, pepper and garlic melded perfectly. The Tangerine Chicken, from the Chopstix’ Specials was also prepared perfectly. It’s easy to overcook small pieces of battered chicken in a deep fryer. But these were perfectly prepared, and the citrus-flavored sauce that accompanied it had the perfect bit of tang to it.

Speaking of sauces, one of the things that must be noted about Chopstix is that, unlike so many of their Asian counterparts that tend to drown dishes in sauce, here they under-sauce their dishes, more as they’re prepared in China.

If you’re a wine drinker, you’ll appreciate the selection at Chopstix. Especially if you’re used to the mediocre choices at most Asian restaurants.

The only problem with Chopstix is finding it. If you’re unfamiliar with Arvada, and the fact that east-west Ralston Road suddenly veers to the north at Independence, you can easily get lost. The easiest way to find the restaurant is to take Kipling north from I-70 to 59th Place, then go east to the first stoplight, which is Ralston Road. Do take the time to find it however, as this is a restaurant worth visiting.

Chopstix Asian Grill, 9604 Ralston Road (59th and Ralston), 303-423-2958