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Dated: November 9, 2007

Ever since the word went out that The Mill Steakhouse was to become Michael’s Italian Bistro, there was speculation about what kind of restaurant it would be. Sure, we knew it was going to be Italian, but Chef Michael Long, who’s run Opus Restaurant for the last half decade has a reputation for being avant garde in his preparations and his selection of ingredients, creating dishes that, while wonderful, are far from the least expensive in town. And Opus is renowned for its five-star level of service. Would his new restaurant reflect his passion for edgy, expensive fare?

And the answer is yes and no. First, he was beginning with the rustic ambiance of the old mill itself, which dates back to the 1800’s when it held wheat to be processed into flour in the actual mill across the street. Even today, bits of chaff are known to appear from nowhere, drifting down from some obscure corner of the towering grain storage area above the restaurant. Trying to create an elegant dining room was out of the question, so, a new coat of paint, some Italian pictures, and he was ready to go.

And it’s obvious his intention was to create a restaurant for families and people who just wanted a good Italian meal at an affordable price. Pasta entrees are priced in the low teens, while the more elaborate dishes cover the upper teens, and only the prime rib and the scampi breach the twenty-dollar point. Add an appetizer of fresh mussels in a variety of sauces or sausage and peppers, and you still have an affordable evening out.

On the other hand, Chef Long has a hard time producing mundane fare and, as a result, everything has that little touch of creative excellence to it that lifts it beyond the ordinary. So, for example, his lasagne, which is incredibly good and cheesy, is made with house-made pasta, and uses sliced meatballs for the beef. His gnocchi aren’t the tough little nuggets we find so often in Italian restaurants, but more like a fried, potato-based polenta cut into rounds and topped with a meaty Bolognese sauce and more of that fabulous mozzarella. And even tiramisu, which is so prevalent that it’s become ho-hum, is given an upscale bump by using apple-flavored Tuaca in its preparation.

The result of all this is that Michael’s Italian Bistro isn’t Opus. If you go expecting Opus, you’re going to be disappointed. Likewise, if you don’t go because you think that it might be too upscale and out of your reach, you’re cheating yourself. No, Michael’s Italian Bistro is creative cuisine at moderate prices in a fun atmosphere—everything a restaurant should be.

Michael’s Italian Bistro, 5798 South Rapp Street (just south and east of Santa Fe and Bowles), 303-797-2433